• Giovanni Oriani

CHAMBRE FASHION: A love letter to the atelier

Looking back at this past month I found two new editorials that particularly stuck with me for quite a few reasons. They focus on the two things I'm more passionate about and invested in in my work: photography and design. The editorials are Vogue Italia "The Eye of Freja'' and Vogue Hommes "Anatomy of a Gesture". They respectively star two of my all time favorite models/talents: Freja Beha Erichsen and Leon Dame. Freja, wearing all Prada, puts herself both behind and in front of the camera in a series of elegant and classic-feeling self portraits, while Leon plays the part of a masterful tailor. These images made me think that what are considered the "old ways'' can always be new again, finding new spaces in a world where technology seems to be predominant every day more.

But the last few fashion seasons also gave proof that the two languages can actually merge and boost one another beautifully, in a creative effort that tells the stories behind each collection from unusual perspectives.

This has been the case for Maison Margiela and Valentino: The former with a two-parts documentary, the latter with a more conceptual and AI filled audiovisual piece.



"Sealed with a lovely kiss (S.W.A.L.K.) was conceived by John Galliano together with Nick Knight and SHOWstudio. Galliano and his team taking the viewer through their creative process with bodycams and drones is just sublime to watch and listen to even through the videocall formula we are now accustomed to.

With "Code Temporal" Pierpaolo Piccioli, Robert Del Naja and Mario Klingemann intertwined artificial intelligence, algorithms and a series of quotes by different artists and authors, to the meticulous hands working in the Valentino atelier. The result is a captivating videoart montage generated automatically by the same AI system that observed the process.


Both the video presentations succeeded very well in communicating what high fashion has meant, what it means today and why it will always be fundamental; it's a celebration of the incredibly high level of knowledge and mastery of the people in the ateliers while it's also the playground where the future of fashion can be prefigured and imagined with utmost freedom.


Images references (from left to right):

-Stills from "S.W.A.L.K. I ", Maison Margiela Artisanal FW20 collection film documentary in collaboration with SHOWstudio, July 2020

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCnbjRlICSQ&ab_channel=MaisonMargiela

John Galliano - Creative Director

Nick Knight - Director

Pat Boguslawski - Movement Director

Anton Engbrox, Leon Dame, Niki Elisabeth Geux - Models

Alexis Roche - Art Director

Olivier Rizzo - Stylist

Eugene Souleiman - Hair Stylist

Pat McGrath - Make-up


-"The Eye Of Freja", Vogue Italia, March 2021

https://www.vogue.it/moda/article/freja-beha-erichsen-servizio-speciale-prada-vogue-italia

Freja Beha Erichsen - Photographer and Model

Tom Guinness - Fashion Editor/Stylist

Ward Stegerhoek - Hair Stylist

Fulvia Farolfi - Makeup Artist

Mary Howard - Set Designer


-"Anatomy of A Gesture", Vogue Hommes, March 2021

https://models.com/work/vogue-hommes-anatomy-of-a-gesture

Amit - Photographer

Giovanni Dario Laudicina - Fashion Editor/Stylist

Louis Ghewy - Hair Stylist

Piotr Chamier - Casting Director

Felix Cheong-Macleod - Model

Leon Dame - Model


-Stills from "Code Temporal", Valentino SS21 Haute Couture collection film in collaboration with Robert Del Naja and Mario Klingemann, February 2021

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_LnGTuea-eE&t=67s&ab_channel=Valentino


We do not own the rights to any of the pictures in the article. All the rights go to the authors of the pictures.